Feast of Madonna della Salute: Faith and Tradition in Venice

Every November 21st, Venice honors Madonna della Salute, blending devotion, history, and community spirit.

Historical origins: the plague of 1630

When autumn comes to Venice, it’s time to celebrate a mystical and folkloric event that has been taking place for almost four centuries.

The survivors of the epidemic that struck the city between 1630 and 1631 walked in procession for three days and three nights.

Faith was the last chance for the Venetians to believe in a healthy future without disease.

The construction of a church dedicated to Our Lady of Health was a votive offering for the city’s deliverance from the plague. An ex voto to which a thaumaturgical role was attributed.

The plague stopped.

On 21 November 1670, the Byzantine icon of Our Lady of Mesopanditissa (defined by the people of Candia as a mediator of peace) was placed in the niche of the altar of the Basilica dedicated to the cult of Mary. The date was chosen by the Venetian Senate because it corresponded in the liturgical calendar to the Presentation of the Virgin in the Temple.

The image became a symbol of healing and salvation for the Venetians: the protection of health was invoked by a suffering population decimated by disease.

Iconographically it is a Madonna Odegitria (οδηγός, odegós, guide: she who shows the way to follow, that is, the Saviour) and dates back to the 12th-13th centuries.

Basilica della Salute: architectural and spiritual symbol

Today the Chiesa della Salute dominates the Dogana, in the Dorsoduro district.

When the plague broke out the Doge made a solemn vow to erect a magnificent monument if the city had survived the disease as symbol of gratitude.

The project was entrusted to the young architect and sculptor Baldassarre Longhena who designed an outstanding building compared to the Palladian Churches built on the Giudecca and San Giorgio islands.

The monumental building covered in Istrian stone, with two domes and two bell towers, has a characteristic that makes it original, and possibly esoteric: the octagonal plan.

The octagon is that geometric figure between the square, the human dimension, and the circle, the divine dimension, which creates a place where it is natural to feel prosthetic to the sacred in spiritual meditation.

This architectural structure of this baroque church allows a new use of the space dedicated to worship, because it makes it possible to turn around the object of devotion instead of observing it from the frontal point of view.

In Longhena’s words the inspiration comes from the Crown of Our Lady:

Celebrations through the centuries

Believers and non-believers alike will make the same pilgrimage in 2024 as those who preceded them almost four centuries ago.

A route through the city via a pontoon bridge across the Grand Canal from Santa Maria del Giglio to Punta della Dogana, and then a route inside the church to pay homage to the Byzantine icon depicting the Black Madonna.

The festival today: living tradition and typical foods

The memory of the Feast of the Madonna della Salute is intertwined with the warm scent of melting wax from the candles and the rich aroma of hot chocolate. These elements, along with the sweet fragrances of traditional treats, create a comforting and nostalgic atmosphere that captures the essence of this beloved Venetian celebration

There is a date from which the social rite of hot chocolate is celebrated: the 21st of November is a turning point in customs and traditions.

From then on, meeting at Caffè Florian, in one of its beautiful Room, or other iconic places in the city for a cup of hot chocolate is a tradition to be preserved.

What about hot Zabaione?

Eggnogs and Marsala are the basic ingredients of this hot drink, which is prepared in a cup at Caffè Florian‘s counter with the traditional gestures.

Not to be missed is the gastronomic route with stalls selling cotton candy and all sorts of colourful and sweet treats.
Children can’t wait to be pampered with sweets and pancakes and to play with a colourful balloon depicting one of their favourite heroes.

There is a combination of flavours that is inseparable from the celebration of this traditional festival: Castradina with Savoy cabbage.
A dish that was already eaten in Venice in the 13th century and is of Dalmatian and Albanian origin. The Serenissima used to go to these places for supplies before setting out on trade expeditions to the East. Its dried meat was ideal for long sea voyages.

Castradina is a leg of mutton that is salted, smoked and then sun-dried to make a rich and tasty soup with the addition of savoy cabbage leaves.
The ritual of its preparation follows ancient canons; the pleasure of sharing it on the Feast of Health is renewed every year.

Proceeding

Prepare the meat by cutting it like a stew, put it in a pan and bring it to a boil three times changing the water every time, except for the last boil. It will be stored and used as broth.

Fry the onion in butter and add the cabbage cut into julienne strips, cook until 3/4 of cooking.

Add the cabbage to the meat and its broth and finish cooking.

Add a pinch of thyme.

Serve in earthenware bowls with toasted bread with butter.

The bond with the Venetian community

The cult of the Madonna of Health originated as a vow of the Senate of the Republic. For this reason, it is solemnly celebrated throughout the territory that once belonged to the Serenissima, in Veneto, Friuli, Istria and Dalmatia.
In Venice, however, there is a small secret place that hides the mystery of the death of the plague: the Sotoportego de la Peste.
It is the passage that leads to the Corte Nova, which is now a chapel dedicated to the Madonna della Salute.
On the floor you can see a red masegno (the colour of mourning in the 17th century).
It marks the exact spot where the plague stopped, sparing the only part of the city where it did not claim lives.
As every good Venetian knows, the red masegno, the stone that stopped the plague, must not be stepped on.

FAQ

When is the Madonna della Salute festival celebrated?

The Madonna della Salute festival is celebrated every year on November 21st in Venice.

Why do Venetians celebrate Madonna della Salute?

Venetians celebrate this special festival to thank the Virgin Mary for ending the plague of 1630, when thousands of lives were lost. The Basilica was built as a sign of gratitude.

What foods are typical of the festival?

The most traditional dish of this festival is castradina, a hearty soup made with mutton, cabbage, and spices.

Where is the Basilica della Salute?

The Basilica della Salute stands at the Punta della Dogana, at entrance to the St. Mark’s Basin.